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Writeup: Speaker
Installation
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DISCLAIMER: This writeup is strictly informational. I do not take any responsibility for any unwanted effects from performing the steps listed below. Please use at your own risk.
I used...
> Phillips head screwdriver
> Torx screwdriver
> Drill w/ bit set
> Dremel tool w/ bit, cutting wheels, and grinding wheels
> Jigsaw
> Ruler
> Black RTV adhesive
> Painters tape
> Heat shrink tubing or electrical tape
> 600 Grit sandpaper
> Soldering iron w/ electrical solder
> 8 #8 2" Sheet metal screws and clips for FRONT
> 8 #8 3/4" screws and clips for REAR (supplied with speakers)
> 3/4" MDF board
> 6 1/2" Component speakers
> Time
NOTE: The back doors directions differ slightly from the front doors.
1} Remove the door panels.
-- Rear doors, remove bottom Torx screw, pop handle cover off, unscrew 2 Phillips head screws. Pull from bottom, lift up, disconnect all connectors and door handle cables.
-- Passenger side, same as rear doors, except there's 1 more Torx at the bottom.
-- Drivers side, refer to here for detailed instructions
2} Remove rivets and woofers. I used a drill bit to remove 'em. If the head pops off and the rivet starts spinning, a chisel and hammer work fairly well. Don't chisel the rivet off, just a little bit will be enough to push it through the door panel. The disconnect the connector, and the woofer just pulls off.
3} Mount the woofers. Here's where the front and rear start to be really different. Front speaker specific things will be in BLUE writing.
3a} Make a spacer. Well, if you didn't notice, the front speakers don't quite go in. When the window is down, it hits the magnet. So a spacer is needed.
Make some circles in the MDF particle board. The outside circle should have a 6 1/2" diameter, while the inside should have a 5 1/2" diameter. I used the 2-pens-and-a-string idea to make the circles. You'll need to make pilot holes for the jigsaw, so mark those too.
Drill out the pilot holes.
Start cutting. Cut the inside circle first, then the outside.
You'll need to make 2 little halos, so go ahead and cut another one too.
I test-fitted the spacer to make sure the sizing was correct. It was.
You'll need to put a notch in the MDF for the wires to come out of, so use the drill or jig to cut one. I actually used some little cheese grater on-a-stick thing that was lent to me for this project.
Now, put the speaker on the spacer and mark your screw holes. I recommend drilling them while both spacer parts are together. Use the painters tape to keep them tight. It should look like this when you're done.
3b} Install the screw clips. This is the same for the front and rear. You will need to cut away some of the metal on the door to make the clips go on.
Use a cutting wheel on your Dremel tool to start the work.
Aaand slide the clips on
3c} Screw in the woofer. You'd think this may be easy, and it sometimes is. Sometimes you will have to play with the positioning of the clips to make it work I recommend using a manual screwdriver as opposed to a drill to screw it in to prevent stripping the screws ('cuz that sucks).
3d} Connect the wiring. Now that the hard part is over, cut the end of the connector that the speaker was plugged in to off. You'll need to strip the wires on the woofer side and the car side. Twist the negative 2 wires together and positive 2 wires together. The car-side wire with the brown stripe is negative, the solid is positive (IIRC). Source is here. Then solder said wires together. Be sure if you're using heatshrink tubing to put the tubing on first before you solder so you can shrink the tubing around the contacts.
Seal the positive with heatshrink or electrical tape, and seal the negative side.
Awesome, you're done with the woofer!
4} Mount the tweeter. For the rear doors, the tweeters are in the door cards, so you do not need to remove the tweeter pod.
4a} Remove tweeter pod. It's pretty simple, all you have to do is push up on the pod to release it from the tabs, then it should just fall right down.
4b} Remove old tweeter. The tweeters are held in by three little plastic tabs. You can either use the Dremel to drill them out, or a small drill bit.
*Special Note* On my speaker set, the front tweeters would not fit without trimming, due to the size difference in the tweeters.
4c} Attach new tweeter. I used a black RTV silicone sealant to attach the tweeters. Just spread some around the edge of the door card or tweeter pod where the tweeter sits. The silicone needs to dry for at least an hour before moving it.
4d} Reattach the tweeter pod. It's the reverse of installation.
5} Reattach the door panel. Back doors do not need modification. The front doors need the little rubber thing around the woofer grille removed.
Finished product.
Copyright © 2007 Xyro TR1. All Rights Reserved.